JANUARY - JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
Often mistaken as a poor relation of the more striking Globe artichoke, this nutty-flavoured tuber is actually part of the sunflower family. If you allow your artichokes, or ‘sunchokes’ as they are also known, to flower you will see the family resemblance - including the signature twist towards the sun.
Native to North America (not Jerusalem as the name also implies), French explorers came across a crop of ‘sunchokes’ grown by Indigenous people at Nausett Harbour, Cape Cod, and took them back to France in 1605. Samuel Champlain, who would go on to be known as the ‘founder’ of Quebec, compared their flavour to that of their European artichoke and so the misleading name was born.
The crunchy root has sweet white flesh and is a versatile kitchen garden ingredient for January. It’s low in calories, high in fibre, and very easy to prepare.
GROW YOUR OWN
Jerusalem artichokes or Helianthus tuberosus are considered one the easiest vegetables to grow. Plant between February and March, 30cm apart, 5-10 cm deep, with 50 cm between any rows. They prefer a rich, well-drained soil, but they will grow in most soil types, even clay, but digging them out can be a bit of a trial. The flower stalks will easily grow as high as two to three metres and can create an excellent wind break, though watch out for them shading less vigorous vegetables. It’s best to cut the stalks down (to approximately 60cm) before they flower, which stops them falling over and sends more energy back into tuber production. It also helps prevent a fungal disease called Sclerotinia, which can infect plants through the flower heads.
Jerusalem artichokes don’t store well and so leave them in the ground until needed. When it's time to harvest, do your best to dig up everything and keep any smaller tubers to replant next year. Any ground leftovers will come back, but the tubers won't develop fully. There are several varieties of Jerusalem artichokes available, but for Pensons’ Michelin Starred restaurant kitchen we typically grow the rounded red fuseau and the smooth skinned white fuseau.
RECIPES
FAST FOOD
Jerusalem artichoke roasted in hot smoked paprika with lemon aioli
Jerusalem artichokes already possess a smokiness in flavour, so the addition of smoked paprika accentuates this quality. Use sparingly as not to mask artichoke’s other subtle nutty characteristics. This recipe will make more aioli than you need, it can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.
Serves 4
Prep and cooking time 35 mins
GF, DF, V
500g Jerusalem artichokes
½ tbsp rapeseed oil
¼ tsp hot smoked paprika
½ lemon
For the aioli
2 large egg yolks
1tbsp Dijon mustard
250ml rapeseed oil
½ lemon
1 large garlic clove
Preheat the oven to 180°c, fan 160°c, gas 4. Wash and scrub the artichokes, halve lengthways and place in a roasting tin. Toss with the oil, season and toss once again with the hot smoked paprika to ensure an even coverage. Place in the oven and roast for 30-35 mins, shaking once at around 20 mins, until golden and tender, finish with a small squeeze of lemon juice.
Meanwhile make the aioli. In a large mixing bowl add the egg yolks and mustard, using a balloon whisk, whisk until pale. Slowly add a drizzle of the rapeseed oil at a time, whisking to incorporate between additions. Once half of the rapeseed oil has been added increase the flow of oil. Once all the oil has been used whisk in the lemon juice, mince the garlic and add to the mayonnaise. Season well and add a little water if you prefer a looser texture. Serve with the roasted Jerusalem artichokes.
SIMPLE SUPPER
Jerusalem artichoke and potato gratin with smoked lardons and green salad
This is a rich dish which needs the sharp lemon and mustard dressed greens to cut through it. To make this vegetarian swap the bacon for sliced chestnut mushrooms.
Serves 4
Prep and cooking time 1 hour 10 minutes
300ml whole milk
300ml double cream
2 garlic cloves
1 dried bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
400g floury potato (King Edward or Maris Piper)
400g Jerusalem artichoke
Whole nutmeg
½ tbsp rapeseed oil
200g smoked lardons
1 large brown onion
15g Parmesan
Green salad
For the dressing
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp White wine vinegar
4 tbsp Olive oil
Preheat the oven to 200°c, fan 180c, gas 6. Add the milk and cream to a large, wide saucepan. Crush the garlic and add to the pan with the bay leaf, thyme, a few gratings of nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Wash and scrub the potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, thinly slice (using a mandolin or food processor if possible) and add to the milk mixture. Bring to a gentle boil over a medium heat, then reduce the heat slightly and simmer for 7-8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly tender. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Meanwhile, place a medium frying pan over a medium heat with a drizzle of oil, add the lardons and cook until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Peel, halve and thinly slice the onion, add to the bacon fat, season, and cook gently, stirring occasionally until softened and sweet. Return the bacon to the pan, stir through to combine, remove from the heat, and set aside.
Place half of the lardon and onion mixture in the base of a large baking dish. Using a slotted spoon add half of the artichoke and potato mixture to the baking dish, spreading in an even layer, season and top with the remaining lardon mixture, repeat with the remaining artichoke and potatoes, and top up with any cream from the pan. Season with black pepper and cover with foil. Bake in the oven for half an hour. Remove the foil finely grate over the parmesan and cook for a final 20 minutes until golden and cooked through.
Meanwhile, make the dressing by whisking the mustard and vinegar together, stir through the olive oil, and season. Allow the gratin to sit for at least 10 minutes before serving, add the dressing to the salad and enjoy.
SOMETHING SPECIAL
Jerusalem artichoke puree with seared scallops, black pudding, green apple and Parma ham crisp
This makes a great dinner party starter as the puree, Parma ham crisp and green apple can be prepped ahead. Meaning only the scallops and black pudding need to be cooked close to plating.
Serves 6
Prep and cooking time 40 minutes
200g Jerusalem artichokes
75ml whole milk
75ml double cream
15g salted butter
3 slices Parma ham
1 Granny smith apple
½ lemon
50g black pudding
Rapeseed oil
18 small scallops or 12 large
Pea shoots or wood sorrel
Pre-heat the oven to 200°c, fan 180°c, gas 6. First make the artichoke puree. Peel and slice the artichokes into 1cm discs, place in a small pan with the milk and cream. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, then reduce to low and simmer for 8-10 mins until the artichokes are very tender and the milk mixture has reduced a little. Season, remove from the heat and blitz in a blender until completely smooth. Add 5g butter, blitz to incorporate, then set aside. This can be made the day before and kept in the fridge, carefully reheat, then allow to cool to room temperature to serve.
Place the slices of Parma ham on a lined baking sheet and bake for 6-8 mins until crisp. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, then break into 18 shards. Meanwhile, finely dice the apple and place in a bowl with the juice of half a lemon, stir to coat, cover and set aside.
Prepare the scallops by patting with kitchen roll to remove excess moisture and season. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat, add a drizzle of oil and crumble in the black pudding, removing any casing. Fry, stirring occasionally until black and slightly crisp, place in a bowl and set aside. Clean the pan and return to a medium-high heat (or use 2 medium frying pans). Add a drizzle of oil to the pan, when hot add the scallops, leave to cook for 1-2 mins or until the base is turning golden, turn the scallops over and add the butter. Allow to cook for another minute until just cooked through, baste a few times with the foaming butter and remove from the pan with a slotted spoon.
To serve spread a spoonful of the puree on each plate with the back of a spoon, place 3 scallops on top of the puree and top with a sprinkling of black pudding, green apple and pea shoots, finishing with the Parma ham crisps.
PRESERVE
Jerusalem artichoke soup with artichoke crisps
This comforting soup is a great way to make the most of a glut of Jerusalem artichokes. Enjoy them out of season by freezing the soup for up to 3 months.
Serves 4
Prep and cooking time 40 minutes
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 large brown onion
1 celery stick
1 garlic clove
500g Jerusalem artichokes
1 potato (180g)
700ml chicken stock
300ml semi skimmed milk
Single cream to serve (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200°c, fan 180°c, gas 6. Add 1½ tablespoons of oil to a large saucepan over a medium heat, peel and chop the onion and add to the pan, cook, stirring occasionally until softened, season. Trim and chop the celery stick, peel and finely chop the garlic and add to the onions. Cook for another 1-2 minutes until the celery has softened. Thoroughly wash and scrub the artichokes, peel 2-3 of the artichokes and set the peel aside. Roughly chop the potato and artichokes and add to the pan with the stock and milk. Cover and simmer for 25-30 mins until the vegetables are tender. Meanwhile, place the peelings on a lined baking sheet and toss in the remaining oil, season and bake for 10-15 minutes, stirring halfway, until golden and crisp. When the vegetables are tender blitz in a food processor or with a stick blender, return to the heat to warm through, divide between bowls, top with the crisps, season with black pepper and finish with a drizzle of cream if you like.